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#1
07-10-2015, 03:01 AM
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They also make standard pressure 158 Grain LSWCHP loads, but they are just beyond the edge of 12 inches of penetration from what I have seen, and they aren't as abundant in the market as I'd like them to be. I'm also somewhat hesitant to shoot lead bullets through the gun for fear of lead deposits in the rifling. Also, the 158s are also in a different grainage than my current target loads, and I try to standardize grainages/loads for my guns. I could buy 158 grain target rounds in bulk and standardize it, which is what I have done with 124 grain 9mm loads, but grainage does make a significant difference in recoil impulse in J frames being that they are small and not recoil operated. Frankly, I'm just not ready to invest in changing my revolver ammo right now, because of what I've read and because I have been throwing money at other things lately, namely my AR-15. I also want to get new guns that will possibly fill the roles I have set for myself better than the ones I have, which are basically collectibles. The thought of a new stainless pocket gun to replace the revolver and a full size gun to replace the P228 come to mind all the time. That or an extra Model 60 and/or P228. So instead, I just carry an FMJ to guarantee penetration, as I have read that if you can only have penetration or expansion, it's better to have penetration (reference the 1986 Miami FBI Shootout). I use the PMC loads because they are the target loads I use for practice. I get them for 15 dollars a box at my local shooting range when they go on sale which is the cheapest I have found any .38 Special ammo, and they work 100 percent reliably. Quote:
Here are some protips from what I have written here so far/what I have learned from research and carry: When buying ammo, consider the length of the barrel you will be firing it from, and how that affects the ability of certain loads to expand and penetrate effectively. You're probably better off using FMJ in a short barreled gun, especially in a "subcaliber" like .38 Special or .380ACP. Additionally, for self-loading guns in general, using FMJ will also inherently eliminate all reliability problems from feeding, granted you have a reliable gun from the start. Consider standardizing your ammo type in terms of grainage, muzzle velocity and muzzle energy. This will make your target loads mirror the performance of your defensive loads so you can be confident that your gun will behave in the most familiar way possible should you have to use it. Standardizing is easy if you buy in bulk on the internet and from a similar manufacturer. For example, I have Federal HST 124 Grain JHPs and Federal American Eagle 124 Grain FMJs which are loaded to the exact same velocity and energy numbers, and the case of American Eagle didn't cost significantly more than other offerings in the same grain. Gun redundancy is something to consider if you are really invested/comfortable with a platform. If your go to is a Glock 19 for example, it might be good to have 2 in case one is out of commission for any reason. Consider using something cool and patrician (a vintage Model 60 or P228) against using something stock and easy to replace (an run of the mill, current production Model 60 or M11A1). If you choose the former, be comfortable with the possibility that those guns may rust, get beat up, stolen, confiscated after a defensive shooting, or any number of other things that may result from carry. If that's no good for you, get current production stock guns. 
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#2
07-12-2015, 05:43 PM
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^wow thats alot of text, and alot of stuff for edc.
I carry a Smith & Wesson 3913 TSW pre-rail with a 7 round magazine without the finger extension loaded with 7 + 1 rounds of 9mm Hornady XTP JHP rounds standard Novak white dot sights. I don't carry a spare magazine on my person but I keep 2 extra 7 round magazines in the glove box of my vehicle. I carry everyday everywhere and I just don't care to have a lot of stuff in my pockets. I carry it in a clip on leather IWB holster made for the 3913. I carry because of my job and because I know that anything can happen to anyone anywhere and its not going to be me. As far as what I would like to carry the S&W 3913 in my opinion is the perfect handgun for concealed carry as it is one of the most accurate handguns I have ever fired functions smoothly, has a perfect snag free profile for concealed carry, very limited recoil, great trigger pull. Only drawback is that Smith & Wesson discontinued support for them so its gonna suck when I need to find spare parts for repair, that and its getting kind of rough looking from holster wear. If I can find a 3913 NL/LS for a decent price or a full size 3913 (8 round magazine) for a good price then maybe Id replace it. I actually bought a Glock 26 Gen 4 for a great deal $450 but I never bothered switching over because the 3913 fits me like a glove. Last edited by AdAstra2009; 07-12-2015 at 05:48 PM.
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#3
07-13-2015, 12:56 AM
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I wouldn't mind getting a nice shoulder holster, heard they're a bit better if you have back issues
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#4
07-13-2015, 04:47 AM
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#5
07-13-2015, 05:38 AM
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Shoulder holsters are good for driving and bad for about everything else.
Of most concern is the design. You have to worry about proper fitting to your body, as well as wearing generous attire to properly conceal it. Most quality models have the gun pointing outward, so you'll be muzzling everyone around you when you walk around with it holstered, and when you draw the gun. You also have the potential to muzzle your support arm as you draw if you don't train extensively. Just as well, most quality shoulder holster options don't offer passive retention models, meaning you will be stuck with an active retention holster and have to fumble with a button to get your gun out. This, combined with the awkward angle of the draw and the leather makeup of the holster makes for a far more complicated draw than waist or other systems. Leather has also fallen by the wayside as a holster material because of its limited lifespan and tendency to retain water and particulate, and the common quality shoulder rigs are leather. A hot Texas climate will amplify all the negative feelings of the design as well. They are likely to be worse on your back than a waistband holster or other option too. Think about it, you are now taking the weight of your gun and spare ammunition and supporting them with your shoulders and back instead of your belt around your waist/hips. You also have to tack on the weight of the overall rig as opposed to just the holster/carrier, and the pressure that the rig exerts, which could be quite a bit if the rig is tight as it ought to be. I can see how a cop would like one since they are probably in a car all day and they don't really need to worry about concealment, but they are usually a bad option for concealed carriers, especially in hot states. I've toyed with buying a Galco Miami Classic II a couple of times just to have the option, but I always change my mind because it's just not a useful product, and at its price point I could buy a lot of other stuff that would work much better or be more fun. Suffice it to say, I personally don't recommend shoulder holsters whatsoever if the goal is legitimate concealed carry.
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#6
07-13-2015, 09:56 PM
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Shoulder holsters can be useful but I wouldn't recommend them for the average joe. If you get a shoulder holster for serious use make sure its a good quality/expensive one and steer clear of UTG type nylon stuff (You should steer clear of nylon for holsters with the exception of some pocket holsters and ankle rigs). If a cop/detective carried his pistol in a shoulder holster he would likely get laughed at for looking too hollywood, Only people ive seen professionally use shoulder holsters for their sidearms are Army commisioned officers and Police Aviation officers.
If your getting a holster for concealed carry I'd recommend a leather or kydex Inside the Waistband (IWB) holster; And always make sure its made for that specific weapon or your not going to have good retention.
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#7
07-14-2015, 12:35 AM
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I've tried cross drawing a gun with a shoulder holster and it takes a bit of time to bring the gun at the ready. In a car, I've seen protective details do it if you are the driver and you stay in the car or also carry a primary subgun that hangs on your dominant side but for the average carrier, I think it's and old style holster.
Some people also have problems with holsters that have no "lock" on them, like either push a button or a switch or move a flap to get the gun out because they are afraid that in a struggle, the gun can drop and even with tough holsters like the Ravens other Kydex, there is a chance if you are in a fight, like if you are wrestling a guy and not minding your gun, it might get snagged out by something, but good kydex holsters have a pretty good retention even if you fall and tumble and I have seen guns do demos where they fall and tumble and the gun stays in.
__________________
 "There's a fine line between not listening and not caring...I like to think I walk that line everyday of my life." Blessed be the LORD, my rock, Who trains my hands for war, And my fingers for battle Psalm 144:1 “It is always wrong to use force, unless it is more wrong not to.”
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